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I bought it to change from 88cc to 110cc with a crank change. I also replaced all the consumables and polished the Engine. I'm satisfied with Torque and Large.
The size of Woodruff key is different between 6V and 12V. About the groove on the Crank side, the width is properly sized for 6V, but the The depth is a deep groove of 12VSize. Therefore, the Woodruff key of 6V is exposed only about 0.5mm. Due to lack of strength, the key will be scraped off and the ignition timing will be out of sync. Quantity:2pc. When you've just ruined Woodruff Key about Set After putting the mesh seat between the grooves and the screw locker, just to be sure, I applied the screw lock agent By installing the key, we were able to gain the OEM equivalent of exposure. I would like you to improve the Crank side or sell the Woodruff key for exclusive use.View Detail
The size of Woodruff key is different between 6V and 12V. About the groove on the Crank side, the width is properly sized for 6V, but the The depth is a deep groove of 12VSize. Therefore, the Woodruff key of 6V is exposed only about 0.5mm. Due to lack of strength, the key will be scraped off and the ignition timing will be out of sync. Quantity:2pc. When you've just ruined Woodruff Key about Set After putting the mesh seat between the grooves and the screw locker, just to be sure, I applied the screw lock agent By installing the key, we were able to gain the OEM equivalent of exposure. I would like you to improve the Crank side or sell the Woodruff key for exclusive use.View Detail
Fits: HONDA Ape 100 09 Frame No.] HC07-1600001 or later HC07, HONDA Ape 100 08 [Frame No.] HC07-1500001 to 1599999 HC07, HONDA Ape 100 07 [Frame No.] HC07-1400001 to 1499999 HC07, HONDA Ape 100 06 [Frame No.] HC07-1300001 to 1399999 HC07, HONDA Ape 100 04 Frame No.] HC07-1200001 or later HC07
Last time I was only bored up, but the 125cc gradually pulled away from me on the way up I was not happy with the way he went and decided to Stroke up Fortunately, because the Case with Oil Element was installed, the additional parts were able to be done with few It was Torque up and the car accelerates easily However, the shaking is now large (Though it's much cuter than OffSingle and SR.) 。 If you need Touring or some intermediate acceleration and you're unsure of your choice of GEAR, you can just accelerate and let go The number of Situations has been reduced, and the vehicle has become a raw vehicle Stroke ups change the clank of the clank I'm personally happy with it However, if you want to run short strokes and super high RPMs, it may not be suitable for you In my case, the Knock Pin of the Crankcase rusted out and I had a hard time, so When you disassemble Crank, it is better to buy two new Knock Pins and prepare them YoView Detail
I combined it with the 88? I made it 110? at the DAYTONA Bookbinding Crank Bore ×Stroke 52?×52?
Crank to Crankcase to Quantity:When set, there is a 0.6° rattling in the thrust direction and the axial displacement of Takagawa is 0.6° In Normal crank, there was no such large wobble And yet it's an individual difference? As for the fee ring after installation, the vibration of Idling also decreases and it turns smoothly to high rotation The response by Stroke up was also uneasy before installation, but the compression ratio went up a little The response is much better than it was at 88? It's only 22?up from the 88?but it's a lot easier to ride with the torque up It was worth the effort to install it
In terms of packaging, DAYTONA's packaging has a tiered ball box with PetitPetitetc I was sent with the CrankWeight part hitting the bottom without any at all, this area is definitely an improvement! I'm worried about the large amount of change as a user This time, when I opened the package, it was in the above state, so I wondered how the accuracy was sluggish, and I went through Mr. Webike I used it after checking the accuracy with DAYTONA I am very disappointed in this area because I think it is a good Crank In that case, I think that webike did a good response to Large Thank you very much for thatView Detail
I asked a Poplar mechanic, The connection rod of Oran Product's Crankshaft was broken, so I had it replaced. Perhaps it was overturned when I was an OEM product, did I get rattled. I was planning to exchange it with OEM Product, but I heard that Crankshaft of OEM Product will also add 20,000, so I was in Sale so if I had similar price, I thought that it would be sturdy Crankshaft I bought this. Thanks to the high-speed Bearing after the exchange, even on a slope that causes Knocking unless it is dropped by one speed It goes up steadily. Actually I do not think that it is like Torque, but I feel strong.. I just finished break-in and just put up to 7000 rpm at the maximum After all it is easy to get on, Since it does not depend on the highest speed anymore, I will not issue 10000 rpm or more I am curious about unknown numbers ahead of 10000 revolutions. Motorcycle that runs slowly around 6000 rpm will have performance but it was also a good buy @ Installation is difficult because the maintenance mechanic of PRO got me to do it but it is hard to understand I think that it is impossible with my arm ^ ^; View Detail
Fits: HONDA Ape 100 09 Frame No.] HC07-1600001 or later HC07, HONDA Ape 100 08 [Frame No.] HC07-1500001 to 1599999 HC07, HONDA Ape 100 07 [Frame No.] HC07-1400001 to 1499999 HC07, HONDA Ape 100 06 [Frame No.] HC07-1300001 to 1399999 HC07, HONDA Ape 100 04 Frame No.] HC07-1200001 or later HC07
I stroke up with Crank from 115 of Bore up only, and converted it to 124. NORMAL (99cc) When it was 115, it felt easy to ride, but when I turned it to 124, I felt clearly the difference in the strength of acceleration. (It is not only the factor of Engine Displacement Volume because there are effects of Parts of Outer Rotor Others that were assembled at the same time. ) Main Spec. Is 124. 4cc - VM26carburetor - Mukawa Outer Rotor - Yoshimura cyclone and so on, but if it is around 250 Single it has become possible to go to the mass two of the lower road without feeling too much of each other. (It is finally possible to build a base that equals FCR Carburetor Body 28 at this. ) By the way, although the picture is Normal crank, if Crank of 9 years is also Beauty it looks like a brand new. After all it's durable wView Detail
?attachment The CBR650R is mounted at the same position angle as the NORMAL. However, when the handlebar was cut to the Left lock, it interfered with the interior cover next to the Meter, so the interior cover was cut away. I also purchased a 45° angled banjo adapter for the mesh hose to accommodate the tension of the mesh hose. ・NORMAL (Reserve integrated horizontal master) Impressions of No complaints on public roads. Familiar feel and very easy to handle. However, when the brake is set to "hard brake," the rate of increase in braking force relative to the input seems to decrease, and the brake becomes more forceful. Radipon (Reserve separate body portrait master) Impressions of It was totally different from what I expected, my expectation was that it would feel like a Rear brake… It is really a mild and easy-to-handle radipon. On public roads, it feels like NORMAL! I wonder if it's because NORMAL is the same NISSIN? But I felt the radipon effect from Breaking a little stronger, and It can be hung up to a hard brake without effort. I felt trust that this could stop.View Detail
I purchased this for use with multiple Helmets. 。 Mount included with the BOLD. Microphone and speaker are not included and must be purchased separately.View Detail
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